Explore the shape of the Hundred Years Evolution watches

As in the just-concluded SIHH2012, the Cartier watch the evolution of their classic "Tank" re summarized again as, in fact, clothing, industrial products, construction and even watch, its design are inseparable from the changes of the times promote.

All the way to the evolution of watch design

Sort of the way the evolution of watch design, will understand why in this day and age, watch design can be like a kaleidoscope, showing an unprecedented complex scene.
 The first watch was born in the flight competition
The first watch was born in the flight competition
Design change: as the difference between the circular pocket watch, square watch born

In 1868, Patek Philippe produced a Hungarian family in his wife a watch, the table is the watch's first known human history.This watch is only decorative means greater than the timing function, when the designers never thought would become pocket watch worn on the wrist, so that at any time convenient to focus time, this will be how far-reaching impact on human change.

By 1904, he lived in Paris, Brazilian-born adventurer Alberto Santos Dumont to complete the ride within 30 minutes of the center of Paris light aircraft flying lap around the initiative.But the first attempt, Dumnot did not succeed, he more than the limited 30 minutes 40 seconds.Clearly, the gap of 40 seconds is not enough to make people give up, and Dumont also believe that this is entirely because of his "Inconvenient took out his watch to calculate the time" caused.Therefore, in preparation for the second challenge, he found his friend Louis Cartier, to see how quickly and easily view time.So Louis Cartier found Edmond Jaeger, the two together create the time this Replica Watches out.By 1911, Cartier decided to watch this launch mass production called Santos, which became the world's first watch in the true sense.

    

 Art Deco achievement square watch
Art Deco achievement square watch
Design change: square watch began to spread, sports watch appears
Capable of mass production are important, but so Santos justify a watch history, but also because it must vote with pocket watch and jewelry very thorough.Because most of those so-called initial transformation of the pocket watches are made, and some is to simply watch directly tied to the wrist, it is also round shell shape.And Santos that square shape design, so this is no longer a pocket watch looks derivatives, have their own independent status and use, is the world watches new world.

With the emergence of Santos, coupled with the rise of Art Deco was brought geometrically symmetrical pattern, a square meter time quickly swept up.In the early 1900s, almost every brand launched a square watch with a self-style.Among them, the most representative was undoubtedly the product family launched in 1932, Reverso.As we all know, this watch is to be British officers in India requirements designed.Those officers want to be able to design a product family  , did not have to watch for fear of damage to their distracted when playing polo.But at the time all of the table mirror is made of glass, such as sapphire, crystal and other solid material has not yet appeared.At the same time, in order to distinguish and watch, so Jaeger came up + square design to "flip" the ingenuity.The Reverso watch again strengthened the position of the square table.So that in time, this concept deeply rooted in people's minds: "circular pocket watch, the watch is square."

 Round substituted Square
 "Oyster" design popular
With the spread of "waterproof" watch the tide
Design change: replace round square, "Oyster" design popular
With the progress of human civilization, time is no longer patent of nobility, the watch began to spread open.For most people, they are not able to be like pampered aristocrat, in everyday life, they often worry about their watch damage, especially water, the watch will bring irreversible damage.So from the beginning of the 1920s, each watch factory began working on completely waterproof case.In addition to the waterproof screw-in crown, screw-rounded bottom and round table mirror is essential, because the "round" and "thread spinner" tightness far more than Square design.After that, it began to shape watch back round.

The classic sports watch models

Rise sports watch

Design change: many of the classic sports watch models have emerged

Rolex "Oyster" watch due to its excellent waterproof performance with great success, but also because the production is relatively easy, so many watch brands have begun to follow suit this design, not only screw-in crown and screw-in bottom cover then become the standard configuration of the watch, even circular case also began to be popular.So that by 1969, Tag Heuer was launched when the first square watch with a waterproof function.But by this time, plastic has been very well developed, added waterproof plastic ring is not a mission impossible in the case, so the round or square, for water technology, it becomes less important.

But also because of the rise of waterproof function sports watch has become a prevailing trend, coupled with the economic recovery, as well as the popularity of automatic pendulum Tuo advent movement, so in the 1950's and 1960's, many watch factory have launched both the timing function and waterproof watches.Many now also very classic watches "have available."For example, in the 1950s Rolex introduced the Submariner, introduced in the 1960s Daytone.Breitling Navitimer launched in 1952, Omega Moonwatch launched in 1957.At the same time, at the time many brands are competing claim to the invention of the automatic chronograph movement, bid farewell to the self-winding chronograph movement unable history.Today, many watch enthusiasts also believe chronograph watch the last century, the fifties and sixties still can not be surpassed.Those at the time of the table, have also been retained as a classic watch brand, continues to this day.

Become a catalyst for war watch

Become a catalyst for war watch

Design changes: large diameter design into the mainstream, becoming longer and more sturdy strap

At each table factory have waterproof function development at the same time, human two "world wars" took place in history.In fact, nowadays, many mechanical and invention, are due to demand born out of war, such as "penicillin" to be found.Watch is no exception, World War II, there is the best example of pilot tables and dive tables.Both military watch in addition must be equipped with magnetic or waterproof, another one of the most important design focus is on the dial must be large enough for easy reading, so large size watches began to appear.Now, men watch dial but also the largest 45 mm, and at the time of the Egyptian Navy SEALs Panerai produced diving watch, the dial sizes up to 60 mm, which is almost portable mortars caliber it's the same.

Not only is the larger dial, while the pilots strap table and dive tables are also custom lengthened.Because early pilots need hands clasped joystick, so their most common practice is to watch tied to the thigh, like dashboard as large dial allows them to quickly and accurately read the time.At that time, the commando divers, you need dressed in heavy diving suit, so strap must also be extended and be strong enough to resist the impact of water.

Space Race technological sense design appears

Design change: industrial manufacturing sense of design appears, replace the word jump pointer display, stainless steel pop

October 4, 1957, when the Soviet Union launched its first Sputnik satellite into space One, after the United States not to be outdone, July 16, 1969, the United States of Apollo 11 will be the first human on the moon.If humanity is to bring World War painful memories, then "the Cold War" and "space race" is to attract the attention of the world, mankind was attracted by the mysterious outer space, began to focus on the race brought science and technology innovation.

It became a irreversible trend that swept throughout the 1970s, when the industrial design with streamlined shape are based, no sharp edges and clear boundaries.Manufacturing requirements overall natural, no trace of splice integration, such as torpedoes, like a spaceship, like nature itself, the screws should be hidden to minimize barge port.Traditional manual manufacturing began to decline, as much as possible to complete all mechanical products, full of feeling cold steel.And the material, then all is white plastic or chrome-plated stainless steel, everything looks not white is silver, like most desolate scenery in outer space.

Meanwhile, as synthetic quartz board and mature technology, electronic form in an unprecedented gesture, of course, he broke into the watch world.Electronic form using a rectangular case and hop character display, look to attract people's attention over, became the darling of the times.In order to combat electronic watches, mechanical watches have also changed back to square design, and the use of genetically Singles pointer display to replace the traditional, conventional belt has naturally been replaced with stainless steel.

Competition brings electronic form thin mechanical watch

Design change: ultra-thin mechanical movement innovation

In the 1970s, electronic form is innovation, the future of the traditional mechanical watch can be said to be naked, with innovation synthesizing circuit technology, the electronic watch has been adding more features.The traditional watch factory, can only think of a fuss in the movement.

Faced 60,70 offensive electronic watch, the Swiss watch industry to come up with a coping strategy is the introduction of ultra-thin movement watch.It would have been the traditional watchmaking a difficult process, but turned out electronic watch, mechanical watch factory only to prove that they, too, can create a table with the same thin electronic watch.

In the ultra-thin movement race, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Piaget were achieved good results.Jaeger-LeCoultre launched a thickness of only 1.85 mm 838 manual winding movement in 1962.Count in the 1957 successfully developed a thickness of only 2.0 mm of 9P manual-winding movement.They launched in 1960 12P self-winding movement, the thickness of only 2.32 mm.In this race, the most legendary undoubtedly Concord (Concord) of Delirium series.This watch is the use of non-backplane technology, Delirium One 1979 on sale, the thickness of the entire gold watch is only 1.98 mm, while their two years after the launch of the fourth generation of Delirium, is full of the entire thickness and gold watch subtracting 1 mm, it becomes 0.98 mm.This is just a thickness of 10 hairs.

Unfortunately, due to the movement made too thin, it is very fragile, slightly larger vibrations are likely to cause a fault.At the same time ultra-thin movement can not carry too many other functions, so most are the hour, minute two pointers styles, even seconds are fit.Eventually lost to electronic form.

Advanced electronic watch sports watch against cheap

Design change: In order to combat electronic watches, Swiss watch factory began to turn advanced sports watch design.

With the rise of science and technology popularization and processing market Third World countries, the electronic form from the previous price, becoming more and more affordable, everyday objects become very cheap.It has also become overwhelmed by the Swiss watch industry last straw, let them naked, many of the traditional mechanical watch factory had closed down or run other programs to survive.

In the traditional mechanical watch and dignity of the occasion, the face of increasingly cheap electronic watches, watch factory finally figured out a way to avoid that is affordable and efficient electronic table edge, began manufacturing the expensive mechanical watches, electronic watches and opened Positioning .At the time, the traditional precious metal table although very expensive, but already unable to arouse public interest in buying, so advanced sports watch was born.

Mentioned advanced sports watch, you can not not say the late designer watches Gerald Charles Genta, it was his 1972 design for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Royal Oak), make this watch became the world's most expensive the steel strip watch.This watch has been found not only sturdy waterproof, can wear exercise, while its delicate metal craft makes this watch suitable for some formal occasions.This time the rich do not want other people wearing the same cheap electronic watches, so became very popular after the advent of this table.Thereafter, Genta went on in 1976 were IWC and Patek Philippe is also designed steel strip Ingenieur and Nautilus.This advanced sports watch category was formally established down, as well as classic, published in 1973 Malibu Riviera and Perregaux launched in 1975 Laureato.

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